Potty talk

For those who were curious about life on the trail, I just wanted to enlighten everyone as to some of the logistics when hiking the trails & back woods at Philmont.  

Bear bags - yes there are bears at Philmont.  Actually, there are a lot of wildlife you may encounter out on the trail - deer, raccoon, bobcat, skunk, bear, but the most prevalent are "mini-bears" (aka Chipmunks).  Sneaky little critters who have been at Philmont for decades, so they know how things run.  They know that young scouts tend to carry tasty treats in their packs and, if you are patient enough, someone will leave there gear lying around for you to explore.  Mini-bears are notorious for chewing through a backpack in search of food. 

Because of occasional bear are always trying to forage for food, everyone is trained to hang all "smellables" up at night.  Bears are attracted to certain sweet smells like food, powdered drink mix, deodorant, bug spray, sunscreen, toothpaste, soap, etc.  Even things like film, medicine, batteries & duct tape have a certain smell that seems to attract bears.  Anything that falls in to the "smellable" category, goes up in the bear bag at night.  Surprisingly, a bunch of smelly, dirty scouts don't attract much attention.  When in doubt, put it in the bear bag at night.  The one thing you don't want to deal with at night is having a bear think your tent is a pinata.   

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Now, let's discuss facilities.  Some asked the question what we do on the trail without running water.  Philmont is not a bunch of scouts running around digging cat holes all over the ranch (although, sometimes you have to answer the call of nature if you are on the trail between camps).   

Red Roof Inn @ Lover's Leap camp

A lot of the "finer establishments" are the Red Roof Inns.  These permanent outhouses come in either single or double occupancy.  Most are located adjacent to camps and are build out of cedar and red tile shingles.  Definitely first class accommodations on the trail. 

Older Red Roof Inn @ Clear Creek camp

One thing you might notice is the preponderance of sticks around the outside of the inn. Those are there for a purpose. The trick we are taught that sometimes, out in the back country, small critters (aka spiders) love to find places to hide out and you need to take a stick to kinda, clear the landing zone before your approach. 

Pilot to Bombardier @ Crooked Creek camp

When you get away from the main camp and deep into the back woods, then you find some of the more basic models available.  They typically come in three versions: 

1. Pilot (single seater) - typically a simple box with seat/lid
2. Pilot to Co-Pilot (double seater) - typically a larger box with two seats side-by-side
3. Pilot to Bombardier (double seater) - typically a larger box with two seats back to back. 

Another Pilot to Bombardier @ Cypher's Mine camp

And, yes, that is perched on the side of a hill 30 feet up

One might note that a few of these "facilities" do lack for a bit of privacy.  While they are not right out alongside the trail, some are located in areas that might afford you a grand view of things.  I do recall one or two that had a spectacular view of the mountains.  Sorta gives new meaning to "front row seating". 

PTB @ Cimaroncito camp

PTB @ Tooth of Time camp

Day 12 (epilogue)

Heading home. Long drive, lots of road time.  Nice time to catch up on the news, read your 10 million e-mails, read a book, sleep or just reflect on what we've accomplished.  Take a breather before we jump back into the rat race. 

Interesting to see how just a few days off the grid can change your perspective. 

In the beginning...

Trail's end

You tend to miss certain things on the trail.  On our last outing, my fantasy since day three was Mexican food.  Trail meals are ok, but after a while, it gets old.  I kept thinking about what I was going to eat when we got off the trail.  Made a game of it with the boys by describing my exact order in detail (chicken fajitas, flautas with fresh guacamole, charro beans, followed by a pitcher of frozen margaritas).  By the end of the trek, I had the entire crew jonesing for Mexican food.

Day 11+

Base camp!

Hot showers!
Indoor plumbing!
Hot meals you don't have to sump!
A Laundromat with washer & dryers!
A soft mattress/cot to sleep upon!
Ice Cream at the trading post!
No more "Pack On!"
No more "Anybody Not Ready?"

Once the crew hits the back gate, after the obligatory pictures and childish celebrations there's a rush to camp to get signed in off the trail. Lots of logistical stuff to do that I won't bore you with. The crew has the rest of the day to check in and decompress from 10 days on the trail.  Maybe it is the sense of accomplishment from completing the long trail or all of the trail work and hiking, but at this point you tend to feel like Superman and can take on the world.   

After unloading gear, taking a hot shower, eating lunch (not necessarily in that order), its off to the trading post or to tour Villa Philamonte (Wade Phillip's home) or the Philmont museum. If there is time, you might hit the laundromat to clean some of the gear, but it tends to get crowded.  Final closing campfire is tonight where everyone is awarded their Arrowhead patch.   

One more early wake up tomorrow morning for the long ride home. 
Ice down the beer, fire up the grill, put the dogs out.  Honey, we're heading home....

Day 11

Tooth of Time!

Last day on the trail.  Should be an early wake up - up at 0430 to hike/climb up to the top of the Tooth in the dark and watch the sun come up over Texas.  Beautiful vista.  Spectacular views.  Afterwards, pack up camp and head to base camp. About a 2-3 hour trek but seems longer with all of the switchbacks along the trail. 

Hi Mom!

Climbing up to the top is a challenge, even in the daylight.  Lots of boulders to climb over.  No set trail to the top, so you have to find your way up.  Once you hit the top, pick out a spot and sit back and get ready for the show.  If the weather cooperates, you will get a fantastic view of the sun rising in the east and watch as it paints the landscape with its fiery colors. 

By dawn's early light

Happy campers

Elevation Marker for the Tooth of Time

9003 feet

Lady Bugs

Scrambling up to the top

Once we've had our fill, we scramble back down the slope, break camp, load up our packs and head toward base camp.  Not a long trail.  Only 3.5 miles (a walk in the park) and all down hill, but it has a bazillion switchbacks, half of which I think were just put there to tease you as you head in towards camp.  Seems like whomever designed the trail wanted to prolong the experience.  Finally, after 10 days, countless one pot dinners, sumping your meals, hanging bear backs and humping your entire gear over 72++ miles, you have made it back to civilization.     

Day 10

Push day

As we used to say in the Army, one day and a wake up!

Today is long/hard trail. Hike up through Hidden Valley (optional side hike) then down to Clark's Fork Camp, then a hard up hill push up to Shaffer's Pass and out along the Tooth Ridge. Depending upon the trail they take and any side hikes, it could be anywhere from 9-12 miles to reach the Tooth Campsites.  If they plan it right and the weather is good, they could eat breakfast at Window Rock. 

Panoramic view from Window Rock

Cathedral Rock & Cito Lake

Bad news is that it is a long day with a steep climb to Shaffer's Pass. Good news is tomorrow at this time they will be back in base camp buying ice cream and souvenirs. This is the last hard day for the crew and that is both exciting and exhausting. They should be looking forward to the return trip to camp and "enjoying" their final day on the trail. One more night of sleeping on the ground and hanging bear bags. Lots of stories to tell and pictures to share.

Clark's Fork

Once they hit Shafer's pass and take a lunch break, they can tackle the Ridge Trail.  A rugged trail that runs along the ridgeline from Shafer's Peak down to the Tooth.  Not a hard trail, but it is long and you spend a lot of time crossing boulder fields.  After about 3 hours of scrambling and rock hoping, you finally reach the base of the Tooth.  Should be   Last day is normally an early wake up, hike to the top of the Tooth and watch the sun come up over Texas. Great sight. Spectacular views. Afterwards, pack up camp and head to base camp. About a 2-3 hour trek but seems longer with all of the switchbacks along the trail.

Looking back towards Mount Phillips

Looking east to the Tooth of Time

After about 3 hours of scrambling and rock hoping, you finally reach the base of the Tooth. Should have plenty of time to set up camp a hike to the top of the Tooth of Time for a view of Philmont.  The Tooth of Time looks like an old molar and is the predominantlandmark that seen when you approach Philmont.  It is a rocky escarpment that sticks out over the eastern foothills of the rancy.  It is in all of the logos for Philmont.  When a crew completes their trek, they earn an arrowhead patch that has the Tooth of Time outlined.  Not all treks wind up on the Tooth.  Some will cross it in passing, others will only see it from afar.  We tend to pick a trek that allows you to camp out at the base and catch the sunrise on the last day on the trail before you head into camp.  To me, the Tooth symbolizes the milestone of completing your journey at Philmont.

Day 9

It's hard to imagine that we've been on the trail for 9 days.  No TV, no radio, no paper, no Internet, no cell phones, no blackberry.  We are fairly isolated and have no clue as to what is going on in the rest of the world.  Ronald Reagan died during our 2004 trek and we did not get the news until we hit base camp.  As hard as it might seem, life seems to move at a slower pace when you don't get your news 24/7 and sometimes ignorance is bliss. 

Also at this stage, we've transitioned from counting the number of days on the trail to counting how many days are left (2 more).  For the boys, they are looking forward to getting back home to their games and electronics, for some of us old farts, we tend to dread going back to lawn mowing and bill paying and other normal adult "games".   

Today is a medium hike but they've got a lot of ground to cover.  Up early and out on the trail.  They can follow two trails down to the old hunting lodge and then hook a left up to Webster Park.  4.8 to 5.2 miles depending upon which trail they take with pretty much the same elevation change for both.  Drop about 1500 feet on the first half of the trek and make it up on the back end with about a 1.5 mile climb of 900 feet.  My preference is the opposite - get your up hill work in early and make the back half a downhill walk to camp, but you have to take the trail God gives you. 

The trek down to the hunting camp should be a nice & easy one.  One path is pretty much a jeep road along the Middle Fork (boring), the other is along North Fork and it is in a narrow canyon that looks like something out of Jurassic Park.  Great trail, lots of rocks to scramble over, several stream crossings.  Should not take long to cover the 3+ miles to the Hunting Lodge. 

They will typically stop there for lunch and a quick tour of the lodge.  This was the original hunting lodge of Waite Phillips who owned most of Philmont and donated it to the Boy Scouts in 1941.  It's been renovated, but still has most of the style and features back went Waite used to to bring up guests and family to hunt. 

From here, they have a short hike up to Webster Park to set up camp.  

As long as they stick to the schedule, they should make camp by 1300.  Plenty of time to set up camp and have time to take care of business. 

More than likely, a few will be tasked to hike down through Cimaroncito and north to Ute Gulch for a food run.  Ute Gulch is one of the back country commissaries/trading posts where you can resupply food, fuel, TP, and pick up a few souvenirs (or trail snacks) plus drop off letters & post cards to home.  It's always nice to send a letter home to the family and we encourage the boys to do so, but trying to get a 14 year old boy to fill out a post card to mom while on the trail is like trying trying to nail jello to a tree.  And don't expect quick mail service.   I've dropped off letters/post cards from the back country only to have them arrive 1 week after I get home.   

At this point, the rest of the crew can lay out in camp and enjoy the rest, hike down to Cimaroncito to take a shower, take a side hike to the Hidden Valley, or try their hands at some rock climbing/rappelling.  Some will try to dry out their stuff from the occasional downpour. 

Day 8

The Stomp!

Today's a long/hard trail.  By this time of the morning, the crew is probably halfway up the trail to Phillips. 

Today they have a hard climb up out of Clear Creek, over the top of Phillips and then down into Cypher's Mine.  About 6-7 miles (baring any detours or side hikes) and a hard initial climb up to Phillips (11,700 ft). With a good, steady pace, they should make the top of Phillips before noon. This will be the highest point on Philmont that the crew will achieve during their trek.  Now, while I have always tried to keep the electronics off the trail, I am sure that a few have squirreled away a cell phone or two and may try to make calls from the top.

On top of Mount Phillips

Taking a break on the top

Looking out east

Once they cross the top and take time for pictures/lunch/rest, they will begin a gradual descent down to Cypher's Mine camp.  This camp is a old-fashioned mining camp where they can pan for gold, tour the mine, practice some blacksmithing, and participate in the "Stomp". That's a general dance/show done every night in the staff cabin. Pretty neat show. Also, I believe that the crew will have an opportunity to sleep in a lean-to so that means no tents tonight (although they may prefer tents).

Cypher's Mine Cabin

Day 7

Has it only been a week since they hit the trail?

By now, things have almost become routine. Wake up early, take down the bear bags, break camp, divvy up the food & crew gear, load up your pack, pack on, anybody not ready?, and hit the trail. The earlier you get a start out of camp, the earlier you can hit the next camp/program.

Today is a medium day. Depending upon which trail they take, they have about 5 miles to get to Clear Creak Camp. Based upon the trek itinerary we took last year, they could take the trail up to Wild Horse Camp and then onto Clear Creek. About 5 miles with a fairly steep climb at the beginning. The hike out of Crooked Creek is nice and gradual until you hit the steep section into Wild Horse. About a 2 kilometer section where you gain about 1,000 feet in elevation (do the math). Tough climb, but once you reach Wild Horse, the rest of the trail is an easy, flat trail down into Clear Creek. The other trail is down along Rayado Creek through Comanche Camp. About the same distance, but a more gradual climb to Clear Creek. Totally up to the crew to pick the trail they prefer (but I believe the views from Wild Horse are better).

Some neat things to do at Clear Creek today, so I hope they get an early start. Black powder rifles, beaver trapping, Rocky Mountain Fur Company, Tomahawk throwing. The program at this camp shows everyone how the trappers lived/survived in the area back in the late 1800's. Nice camp with good facilities/program. Good chance to rest up before they tackle Mount Phillips tomorrow.

At this point, the crew has been able to see/experience a lot of Philmont and have become "seasoned" trail hands. I am sure they have seen a lot of outstanding scenery and lots of wildlife (deer , mini-bears). I'm sure they have encountered the other residents of the back country: mosquitoes. Typically, whenever the summer is wet, mosquitoes tend to flourish in the backcountry, especially at Clear Creek, Crooked Creek and Wild Horse. No amount of bug spray seems to help and I seem to recall sitting outside my tent wearing my raingear (no rain) just to keep them off. Early reports from previous crews this year seem to have them in high numbers but I hope the guys don't have it too bad. I am also hoping that the weather has been nice for them. Typically, it rains at some point in Philmont almost every day.

Day 6

Halfway done.  Does anybody know what day it is?

At this point on the trail, you start to lose track of the days (is it Saturday or Sunday?).

The guys have covered about 50% of the trail and are now deep in the back country of Philmont. If you were to Google the location, they will be somewhere along the backside of the property.

Today should be a fairly easy/short (3.6 miles) hike. Depart Beaubien, hike through to Phillips Junction for breakfast and food pick up and then up to Crooked Creek. Nice site with excellent examples of 1860 homesteading. Good chance for the boys to practice their hands at cutting wood, making candles, herding livestock, and generally living like they were in the late 1800's.

Saw buck

Rounding up the herd

Time to enjoy another campfire tonight and some old time songs/stories.